Rione Monti
A guide to Monti, the district we call home
We have lived in Monti for over thirty years and these are the things we recommend to our guests, the same things we do ourselves on a Sunday. No endless lists: just a few well-chosen places, nearly all within walking distance.
on foot
- 4′Cavour metro (line B)
- 3′Piazza della Madonna dei Monti
- 10′Colosseum
- 8′Imperial Forums
- 18′Trevi Fountain
- 25′Pantheon
- 15′Termini station
What to see
Monti borders ancient Rome: the Colosseum and the Forums are literally at the end of the street.
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Colosseum and Roman Forum
10 min walk
Book the first slot of the morning online, at 8:30, when the light is soft and the tour groups have not yet arrived. The same ticket covers the Forum and the Palatine: allow at least three hours.
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Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli
6 min walk
A hidden staircase between the buildings leads to this quiet church, home to Michelangelo’s Moses. Entry is free and hardly anyone knows about it.
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Santa Maria Maggiore
12 min walk
One of Rome’s four papal basilicas, with fifth-century mosaics and a gilded ceiling made with the first gold brought back from the Americas.
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Trajan’s Markets
8 min walk
The world’s first shopping centre, on several levels. From its terrace you look down on the Forums, with far fewer crowds than at the Colosseum.
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Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon
18-25 min walk
One single walk: start at the Trevi Fountain, ideally before 8 am, then wander to the Pantheon by way of Piazza di Pietra.
Where to eat and drink
We don’t name names so as not to offend anyone: ask us at breakfast and we will mark everything on your map. Meanwhile, here is what to look for.
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Trattorias on Via del Boschetto and Via Panisperna
This is where you still find family-run trattorias with handwritten menus. Order carbonara, cacio e pepe and, from October to April, Roman-style artichokes.
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Pizza by the slice on Via dei Serpenti
For a quick lunch between museums: pizza al taglio sold by weight, try the simple tomato one and the potato and rosemary. Eaten standing up, in the square.
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Aperitivo in Piazza della Madonna dei Monti
At sunset the square fills up and Romans sit on the fountain steps with a glass of wine. The wine bars around it pour wines from Lazio and serve platters of cured meats.
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Artisan gelato
You can spot good gelato by its natural colours: pistachio is dark green, not bright green, and banana is greyish. There are a couple on Via Cavour and Via dei Serpenti that won’t disappoint.
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Bakeries and delis on Via Panisperna
In the morning, for a slice of warm pizza bianca, cheeses from Lazio and a porchetta sandwich from Ariccia.
Getting around
The historic centre is best explored on foot. For everything else, the metro and a few buses are all you need.
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Metro
Cavour, line B, 4 min walk
One stop to Termini, two to the Colosseum. At Termini change to line A for the Vatican and the Spanish Steps. You can pay with a contactless card right at the gates.
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Buses and trams
Buses to Trastevere, the Vatican and Villa Borghese leave from Via Nazionale and Piazza Venezia. For Trastevere, tram 8 from Piazza Venezia is the easiest.
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Taxis
You can pick one up at the ranks nearby, for example in Piazza Venezia, or call one through the official Rome radio taxi apps. We are happy to call one for you.
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Airports and station
Fiumicino: Leonardo Express to Termini and one metro stop. Ciampino: direct bus to Termini. All the details are in the FAQ on our home page.
Our little secrets
The things you won’t find in the guidebooks.
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The Aventine keyhole
Through the keyhole of the Knights of Malta’s gate you see St Peter’s dome perfectly framed. Go early in the morning to avoid the queue.
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The Via Leonina market
A few Sundays a month there are stalls selling vintage clothes and crafts. Ask us for the dates at breakfast.
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Sunset from the Janiculum
Take a taxi or bus 115 up to the Janiculum terrace: all of Rome at your feet, with the domes turning pink.
“Our advice: sleep in one morning by all means, but on another get up at 7 and walk to the Colosseum. An empty Rome in low light is something you will never forget.”
Elena e Giorgio
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